PFW | CÉLINE

 

'I wanted to be optimistic'

 
 

Céline has to be one of our favourite fashion houses. As a brand ourselves, we love luxury in simplicity, minimalism evolving new worlds of timelessness, and Céline captures that very essence. Creative Director Phoebe Philo describes the Céline woman in a way to which she likes tonal dressing, easy shapes and luxurious fabrics, since the very beginning, this remains true.

Not least is Céline luxurious as it is comforting and easy to wear. So comforting, nostalgic and familiar, Philo filled the plywood benches with sleeping bags so as to welcome the audience, what better way to view the runway than nestled amongst fashion’s elite journalists snuggled beneath the blankets. Philo brought the audience close together, with the runway at floor level, narrow and intimate.

When deciding what to wear each morning, the trends we inject into our wardrobes come and as fast as they’ve arrived, they’ll soon leave, but the classics remain, withstanding the test of time; non-disposable, the foundations of your each and every look, the base of what is you. For Céline, we are never far from oversized tailoring, throw-on suits and to-die-for coats. Season after season these key pieces deliver and create the label’s recognisable signature.

For Spring/Summer ’18 we look to the expert craftsmanship of wide shouldered suits and side pleated skirts upon power silhouettes of the 1980s for which the collection was inspired by - an era Philo describes as joyous and free. The collection was thought up in that exact mindset, 'I wanted to be optimistic. It was just this sense of joy and life force. It felt like a celebration. I thought, If there’s anything to say at the moment, let it be with love and let it be joyful.'

The most innovative creation may have to be the double-layered trench coat, two coats in one joined at the hem. The shape was developed through Philo’s experimentation, she loved the tailored coat but wanted to add a function to the cape-like way we often wear them. 'When it's raining, sometimes I'll put my coat over my shoulders with my bag underneath to protect it. It started with customising trenches and just draping them, playing with them, putting them on the shoulder.' And of course Céline’s new season leather goods, oversized envelope totes and petite padded clutches are ready and waiting to be fallen in love with.

Hair was created by Bumble and Bumble's Jimmy Paul, a favourite of Marc Jacobs, Paul styled hair in a super natural, contemporary way, the way you’d wear it every day, tousled, loose and textured, or sleek and pulled back away from the face. The belted jackets, oversized dresses and luxe textures all make up the quality of the small, but perfectly formed, collection, using muted tones of taupe, khaki and strong black with silky leather, the clothes draped each model effortlessly, a truly ready-to-wear collection for the classically confident Céline woman, executed beautifully.

 
 
 
 

Video embedded courtesy of Fashion Feed YouTube [Celine SS18 | Paris Fashion Week].